"The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step." Lao Tzu

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Day 3: Neuchatel

The day started very early. I got up earlier than normal and was on a train by 8 am to Neuchatel. Once arriving in Neuchatel, I walked from the train station down to the port then back-tracked through Old Towne. Old Towne is very beautiful. New construction being done in the area is designed to fit in with the surroundings, which makes this one of my favorite cities. While wandering through the tiny streets, I came to the Fountain du Banneret.

This fountain is the oldest fountain. It was built outside the former town walls and was at one time a small fountain used for livestock. It was enlarged and embellished in 1851 by Laurent Perroud. Another fountain carved by Mr. Perroud was the Justice Fountain. He carved this fountain between 1545 and 1547. The octogonal basin is surmounted by the figure of Justice and at her feet, four figures symbolise the various forms of government in olden times: a pope, a magistrate, an emperor, and a sultan.Another cool fountain seen in Neuchatel was the Fountaine du Griffon. This fountain was once in the middle of the towns crossroads and was filled with surplus water that was intended for the castle.
While walking up Rue du Chateau, I came across some steps to the right of the street. These steps lead to the Chateau and to the Collegiate Church. I was in time to take in a tour of the Chateau. Since a majority of those taking the tour spoke French, the tour guide did the tour in French. I told her not to worry about me because I would be able to pick out certain words and get the general meaning behind what she was saying and if I didn't understand, I would ask for clarification. Sometimes I like not being able to speak the language fluently because it gives you a chance to just observe and some observations can be missed when you are too busy hearing what someone is saying.The chateau (castle) has origins that go back to the 18th century. Neuchatel had a huge fire in 1450 that burned a majority of the city. The city suffered another fire in 1714. Some of the evidence can be seen in the brick walls of the castle. Today the castle is the seat of the cantonal government. The tour took visitors to the servants kitchen, the state room, the records room, the knight room and the coat of Arms room. The coat of Arms room was my favorite. All along the walls are the coats of the ruling class. Each coat of arm shows the couples origins. The room is used as a court room today. From the windows of this room, one could look out over Old Towne all the way to the port. It was a beautiful sight. After the tour ended, I headed across the cobble street to the Collegiate Church.
Construction on this church started at the end of the 12th century and was consecrated in 1276. On the north side of the church is the Cloitre, a Romanesque arcade. The church was Catholic until the time of the Reformation and is now used by the Protestant Parish of Neuchatel. Only the south bell-tower is original; its spire and the north tower were built in 1869.
The inside of church was very ornate. The ceilings were a rich blue color with gold stars. There are 15 carved and painted statues in cenotaphe which was located in the choir of the chruch. Many carved statues guarded the outside doorways of the church.After viewing the inside of the church, I spent some time looking at the sites outside the church. Since the church and the castle are built on a hill, the view was amazing anywhere you looked. One of the small roads leading from the church brought you to the Prision Tower. This building was built in several stages and the bse is believed to be from the 10th century. In order to view the tower, a small fee was required. After paying the fee, you were able to view models of Neuchatel as it looked during the 15th and 18th centuries. Then the long steady climb to the top begins. Small prision cells were located on each landing. As you got higher up the tower, the wooden stairs became steeper and the clearance space smaller. The view from the top of the tower was great. Not a cloud in the sky so you could see the town, the lake, and the Alps. After climbing back down the deadly stairs, I headed back down the hill and to the port again. As I was down Market Crossing, I came across Corbets Passage. This closed spiral staircase is done in the Renaissance style was nestled gown Masion des Halles. One of the little hidden gems of Old Towne. At then end of street is Masion des Halles (the covered market). This building was originally built as a grain and cloth market by none other than Laurent Perrond between 1569 and 1575. Today it is now a restaurant. While entering the square, another market day was in full swing. I grabbed some fruit and cheese and headed back up the hill to the train station to catch a train to Bern, Switzerland's capital.

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