Day 12: Road to Milford Sond

Along our journey to Milford Sound, we stopped along the way to see glacial vallies. Unlike the North Island, the South Island has been formed and carved by glacials. The vallies are u-shaped with steep sides. In the valley, there is alluvium made up of sand and gravel. Along the river, there are Russell lupins. These plants are considered legumes, which means that they are able to fix Nitrogen and can grow in poor soil. The sight of these plants and the smell of them is beautiful however because they are growing along the riverbank, the black stilt bird, which uses the sandy bank for their natural habitat is being pushed out of its natural habitat.

Along the way, we saw tons of evidence of plate collisions recorded in the twisted strata. Moraines, deposits of till left by the glaciers, were also seen. Several terminal and lateral moraines were seen as we continued to Milford Sound. Scree fields and Talus cones are more evidence of glacial debris.

As we were waiting to pass through on of the mountains, via a one lane road, we saw the Kea. The kea is a parrot like bird that is completely flightless. Due to settlers and the introduction of dogs, a lot of the flightless birds originally found on NZ were wipped out.

Once at Milford Sound, we boarded the Red Boat to cruise around the sound. Here we saw many waterfalls coming off the cliffs of the fjiord, saw the fur seals sunning on Seal Rock, and the Tasmin Sea.

After enjoying the cruise through the fjiord, we stopped by a chasm to see how the power of water can alter and shape the topography.

Day 11: Road to Te Anau

Said goodbye to the Sutherlands and headed to Te Anau. Along with way we stopped at Curio Bay to see if we could see a small pod of Hector Dolphins. If they were in the bay, which is also known as Porposie Bay, we would have the choice of entering the very cold water to swim with them. I would have done this if they were present but since they weren't, I didn't have to freeze for the rest of the day. We stopped at the petried forest before we hit a town for lunch.

We finally arrived in Te Anau. I gave a brief talk on Crustal Plate tectonics before heading into the town to experience the Glowworm Caves. Lake Te Anau is the second largest lake in NZ. It is the deepest freshwater lake (200m). There is little primary productivity in the lake. The glowworms are the larvae stage of the midget and normally stay at this stage for 6 to 9 months. They hang from the rock by hammocks and produce fine lines called 'fishing lines' from a special gland in their throat. These lines are used to catch flies that come from the stream below. The larvae are very territorial and will eat other glowworms if they are annoyed are if there is little to no food. The light produced by the glowworm is from lucfierase and comes from the digestive system. This light helps to attract prey. After the larvae pupate, they become a fungus gnat that can't feed and will only live for a few days.  The caves were formed due to the dissolving action of acidic water on the strata. Streams are forced underground and re-emerge later. Higher, drier areas in the caves have constant dripping of water which lead to the formation of cave decorations. Since this area has very minimal changes in temperature and humidity, this evironment is very stable and the glowworms are able to thrive here.


We took a boat ride down the stream into the darkest part of the cave. Seeing scalloping features in the limestone, waterfalls, high catherdral ceilings and the 'starry night' produced by the tons of glowworms was a sight to behold.

Day 10: Papatowai Beach Hike

After a quick breakfast, we headed out towards the beach. Marram was an introduced grass to help prevent erosion. We hiked through the brush on our journey. Since there are no ticks in New Zealand we didn't have to worry about picking up unwanted pests. Shells seen in the soil were from the Maori and their cooking habits. Saw some possum bones and found out that the possum was brought in for the fur industry but they eat the vegetation and carry disease so now NZ is very strict on what can and can't be brought into NZ.

Along the journey we saw giant kelp (Dirvellia antarctica) along the beach and out in the kelp forest off the shoreline. The kelp forest helps prevent erosion of the shoreline and also provides a place for many organisms to call home.  The Maori used it to make air tight food bags, from the kelp, which were then stored in special houses so that the bags wouldn't be too wet or too dry. These bags could be kept for up to 2 years.

We spent some time exploring the tidal pools. Organisms here are adaptive to the change in water level. Organisms seen were anemones, snails, sea stars, fish, coralline algae, blue mussels, neptune's necklace along with other algae. Evidence of faults and joints were seen in the rock due to compaction of the strata. A minor fault was seen in an outcrop of rock. The lighter sediments were separated by darker sediments, which turned out to be coal.

From the beach we headed into the rainforest. Here a large variety of trees can be found. Since they need light, the trees have adaptations that allow for them to achieve this goal. One adaptation would be the use of vines. Supplejack was used by the Maori as a food source. This plant winds its way around a structure. Clematis uses tendrilles to attach to a structure. The native rose uses little hooks from its stem to attach while the Rata vine uses roots to attach to objects. Evergreens were the most dominate tree in the forest. Some of these trees seen in NZ are also seen in tropical rainforest. Some plants seen were the Pepperwood, Lemonwood, Miro, Matai, Black pine and Corpolite.

After a spot of lunch, we continued on to the Cathedral Caves. Since these are located on private land, a $3.00 fee was charged per adult. The caves are actually a sea cave carved out by the wave erosion and by the faulting of the area. Black layers of coal are evidence of an ancient forest. Since the area was once logged, no large trees are found in the area only tree ferns dominate. Seals, penguins, bats and weta use the cave. We spotted several types of algae and tubeworms in the caves along with limpets, chiton, and barnacles.

From the caves we headed to the Tautuku Estuary. This area was once the sight of a logging village. Non-native trees were planted while native trees were cut down. Some of the non-native species introduced were the Sycamore, Maples, Holly, Cyprus and Pines. In the estuary there is mainly jointed rush and ribbonwood grasses. The fern bird can be found in the estuary. This bird is nearly flightless and makes a 'click' as its call. Hydrocarbon film can be seen on the mud and is a natural deposit due to the decay of lipids. Many mud snails, worms, crabs, and kingfisher birds were seen at this spot.


We capped off the evening by attending a geology lecture at town hall. Fergus was given the lecture and it is part of the DOE summer program lectures given at town hall.

Papatowai Vegetation

just a few items seen while walking around our first day at Papatowai.

Day 9: Nugget Point and Papatowai

Along route 1 south to Papatowai we stopped at Nugget Point to walk to the lighthouse. Here is where warm ocean currents meet cold ocean currents providing a rich area for marine life. There were several sea lions basking on the rocks or swimming in the pools or just playing around with each other. Along the path to the lighthouse a lot of thistle was growing. Butterflies and bees were fluttering from flower to flower. Gulls and terns were flying over head calling to each other. The sea stacks, wave-cut terraces, the uplifted strata and a sea arch, made this a wonderful place to view. As the swells continued to pound the coastline, the water took on a teal green color. I'm always amazed at God's creation. How could you not!After a bite to eat at Kata Point we headed to Cailins Wildlife Trackers. Along road 92 we saw tons of foxgloves in bloom and a variety of harriers cruised passed the vans. Caitlins Wildlife Trackers is run by the Sutherlands. Fergus has been in the bush country since he was 10 years old. In front of his house is a small rainforest before you head out to the ocean. From the livingroom picture window you can see the inlet where the ocean surges in. I could spend forever just looking at that view.Fergus gave us information on what Papatowai means. "Papa" means earth and "towai" is the name of a tall tree. He lead us on a walk around the area. We saw the Rata tree, which is part of the Myrtle family, and nested in it was the bellbird.

There were a variety of ephiphytes on the trees and several orchids in bloom. Saw and heard the tui. It's call is like a 'beep beep' but in different tones.

We continued through Shank's Bush. This is a private reserve that came about when 5 villagers bought the 5 acres of land when a farmer sold it. Along the trail there are 5 main areas. The first area is referred to as the replanting area. This area was cleared in the 1940s and the conservationist started replanting it in 1999. The native braken ferns were the first to come back and bigger trees are being planted to help regrow the forest that was once there prior to the 1940s. The second area is the Manuka. This tree is also succeeding where the braken is and eventually they will be crowded out by bigger trees. The third area is the Shurbland. These shurbs have small leaves with twiggy stems. There are two theories for the formation of these shrubs. The moa theory (to discourage the moa from eating them) and the climate theory (changes in climate caused their adpatations). The fourth area is the estuary. You can spot stilts, spu wing plovers, gulls, terns, heorns, shags, and kingfishers wading and diving in the area. There is even the parasitic plant mistletoe in the area. The last areas is the Kahikatea forest. Here is one of New Zealand's bigest native pines, the Kahikatea. They like to grow in wet, fertile areas.
Many sights were seend along the trail: a thrust nest, liverworts, black mushrooms, Matopo, old man's lichen staghorn lichen, orange lichen, climbing ferns, Rimu, Fuscia trees, 3 varieties of tree ferns. Not to mention hearing the varieties of birds calling from high up in the trees. A perfect ending to the day.

Day 8: Moeraki Boulders, Yellow-eyed Penguins, and Royal Albatross

Being able to sleep in a little was a treat so after a quick and light breakfast, we headed out to the Moeraki Boulders. Winding along the coastline gave us some beautiful scenery. A little nervous at times with Twinning would try to take pictures while driving on the left-side of the road.We parked at the trail head to the beach and spent time with the Scottish red deer before heading down to the beach. Once at the beach, everyone scattered to view the boulders. The boulders are considered septarian concretions. They are made from the cementation of mud and silicon dioxide. When the cliffs erode, due to the poorly consolidated soil, they fall to the beach below. There are calcite veins running through some of them and you can see several stages of erosion due to the remains of boulders left along the beach.Lots of kelp along with other algae was seen on the beach. Picked up a mud rock that had evidence of a polychaete worm at one time. After spending time along the beach, we headed into Dunedin, a very hilly town along the coast and checked into the Adventurers Hostel. After dropping off the trailers we headed out to the Otago Peninsula. The harbor here was created by a linear fault. When several faults were parallel to each other a geological feature called a graben formed. Here on the peninsula, we'll visit Penguin Place, which is the home to the yellow-eyed penguin reserve and then off to the Taiaroa Head to see the Royal Albatross colony.While at the reserve, we traveled through tunnels to get up close to the penguins. There are 18 breeding pairs located at the reserve. They are very territorial and will squawk at anything that comes into its nest that isn't suppose to be there. The yellow-eyed penguin is one of the rarest penguins. It is only one of 18 species. The iris is yellow along with an area around the orbital cavity. They only live in a small part of New Zealand. There are only 1,000 living on the mainland but there are over 3,000 living about 700 km from South Island on Steward Island. This is because their habitat is intact. On South Island, there is a loss of their breeding habitat and due to the introduction of predators. The reserve helps by providing nesting boxes to the pairs. Since they are territorial, the breeding pairs need to be out of sight from each other. The landowner and a conservation group work together on providing a natural habitat for the penguins. Since the penguins breed in native forest, the conservation group is replanting native trees in the area. Foster parents are used to help raise the chicks. An egg is given to juvenile penguins and these penguins sit on the egg and raise it even though they aren't mature enough to breed. The chicks have grey fluffy down and it is used as a camouflage. The parents lie 2 eggs a year and they both take turns raising the chick. They feed the chick until they are 15 weeks of age. The young chicks then leave the home to hone their skills. They will hang out in a group when they first leave home. Usually they leave home in February and March and spend about 5 months in the ocean. They'll come ashore in August to breed. Penguins change their feathers once a year and it can take up to 4 weeks to complete the molting.
At the Taiaroa Head Reserve we viewed the Royal Albatross. Of course as soon as the word albatross was mentioned, those who enjoy a good Monty Python skit, started yelling "Albatross, Albatross for sale!" These magnificent birds spend 80% of their life at sea. Since they breed biannually, the non-breeding year is spent at sea. These birds do mate for life and can reach flight speeds over 100kph. At the reserve, the winds were over 40 knots and the birds love this because they need it for lift. Watching the chicks take off from the cliff was amazing. You can just hear them laughing and enjoying the ride. This is the rush that hang gliders feel. If the chicks don't make it the first time they try to fly they'll usually die. Rangers will collect them from the water and give them another chance at flying. Invasive plants and traps are being removed so that the chicks have a better chance of survival.After a recap, we turned in early. Tomorrow we'll be heading to Papatowai. Here we will be able to stay for a few days. Good thing because I was starting to hate the inside of the van.